Friday, July 27, 2007

Forever Baffled


Last Sunday, Maxie and I decided to attend a Catholic Mass in the Trinitatis Kathedral in downtown Dresden. Maxie had never before attended a Catholic service and I only had a vague notion of where the church was, so we asked a nice, elderly lady on the tram how to get there. Seemingly excited at the prospect of two youngins going to church (religion is all but obsolete among the younger generations), she encouraged us to let her show us the way (to church, that is). Maxie asked her whether she was going to a Catholic service and she responded with, “Na klar, na klar” (of course, of course). Perfect, now we had a little buddy with whom to go to church. We walked through the doors and she encouraged us to glance around for a bit, since the service wasn’t going to begin for another half an hour or so. I looked briefly for the holy water, but found none and didn’t give it much of a second thought. It turned out there was also an art gallery on the first floor. No, none of the Catholic churches I had ever been to had a modern art gallery, but hey, I’m in Germany and a lot of things these Germans do seem slightly off to me. Once we were done looking, we sat down in a pew and I reached down to lower the kneeler. There was none. Funny again, but what the heck. So I sat quietly and gawked at all the statues and figures that filled the altar – Mary, Joseph, some angels, little baby Jesus, and one more fellow, whom I didn’t recognize. ‘He doesn’t look like any biblical character I’ve ever seen in traditional depictions,’ I thought to myself. I studied his face a bit more and then moved on to the inscription beneath the statue…’german german german MARTIN LUTHER german german german.’ The old lady had tricked us into going to a Protestant church! We thought about asking her about it, but decided not to, knowing that she would respond with either one of two things: 1) genuine confusion or 2) feigned confusion. So 45 minutes worth of singing, a baptism, and an homily later (all-in-all around two hours), Maxie and I saw again the light of day and decided we should find the Catholic church so we know where it is for next Sunday. But honestly, it was an interesting and worthwhile experience, and ten Hail Marys later I’m sure all is now forgiven. Pictures of downtown Dresden, including the churches mentioned above, can be found here: http://picasaweb.google.com/racheldubya

A few days ago Frau Fischer, her son Thomas, his wife Froh-Fro (not her real name. Actually, I don’t know her real name. This is just a nickname taken from the German word for ‘frog’. For more about Froh-Fro’s love of frogs, see entry dated June 28th, 2007) and I headed off to the borders of Poland to do some shopping. We left promptly at 8:30 in the morning and by 9:15 we had pulled over at a rest stop in order to eat. Everyone still buckled in, I stared wide-eyed as Frau Fischer proceeded to pull out from a picnic basket wurst sandwiches, cheese, salami, orange juice, tomatoes and eggs to tide us over for the next 45 minutes or so until we got to Poland.

The market itself was an interesting experience – I like to think of it as a less-aggressive Middle Eastern marketplace, only everyone spoke Polish and whatever German they needed in order to sell their goods, which consisted predominantly of cigarettes, knock-off clothing and shoes, animal skins, cheese, pickles and a variety of translucent meats. Frau Fischer bought a couple things for Maxie’s apartment and Thomas and Froh-Fro got some clothes. On the way back to Dresden we stopped in Rothenburg to get something to eat. I had a gigantic serving of schnitzel paired with potatoes, soup, and a fist-full of vegetables. Not yet knowing the German etiquette for taking leftovers from a restaurant and taught by my parents at an early age to eat everything on my plate, I proceeded, head down and with great determination, to eat it all. Although I felt a little sick to my stomach, I inwardly congratulated myself on a job well done. It wasn’t until afterwards that I noticed that everyone else had more than half of their food leftover and all eyes were looking tentatively in my direction in an ‘I can’t believe you ate all that’ sort of way. Lesson learned: Germans, like Americans, also take leftovers to-go. Now I know.

Maxie has now moved out of the house into an apartment of her very own (right across the street), so I’ve been helping her move. German apartments and houses are completely empty upon move-in (no light fixtures, kitchen appliances, counters, etc.), so one has to buy, build, and move a lot more than what Americans are used to. We spent the last couple days painting and also “building the kitchen”, so if all goes smoothly, I’ll post before and after pictures in the next couple days.

No one here has much of an interest in talking about the weather with me (which I think makes up for a good half of my conversations in Austin), so I will now post my thoughts here. It’s been hot lately. How hot? Well, Frau Fischer came in the other day, drenched in sweat, throwing off her clothes, exclaiming it was 47˚C outside. I stared at her blankly while standing in the doorway, doing my best to do the conversion in my head, but I blame the dog dander or tap water or abundance of dairy products I’ve been eating for clouding my mental faculties, so I ran quickly to my computer to convert the temperature into Fahrenheit. 116˚F. No, no, definitely not. Maybe lower 90’s at the highest. I went back into the entryway to tell her that this was just not possible, but she wasn’t having any of it. 47˚C it was. But it has cooled down a good bit – this morning I needed a jacket when I went out.

So now I’m off to go help Maxie catch her little songbird, Melita, which is flying loose at the moment. I threatened to turn her into a chicken nugget if she continued her disobedience, but Maxie has just enlightened me that chicken nuggets are actually made out of old textbooks, namely trigonometry.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

...hola?



As some of you may or may not know, I was in Rome for the past week or so. My third-semester Greek teacher and generous host Karl Galinsky provided me with a place to stay and food to eat while I wandered through the streets and gawked at the sites of the Eternal City. If you’re more into pictures than words, then I encourage you to visit http://picasaweb.google.com/racheldubya, sit back and enjoy. I too would pick a comic book over a novel. And if you still want additional info. about Rome, I recommend ‘The Lizzie McGuire Movie’, in which Lizzie goes to Rome on a class trip, gets mistaken for a pop star, fills in for this pop star, falls in love, and ultimately discovers things about herself she never knew. It’s on the Disney Channel quite regularly. Watch out for the surprise ending! For the rest of you, here are some highlights:

The flight from Berlin to Rome was thankfully uneventful. I was lucky, however. Apparently a couple hours after I landed, a mentally unstable man from Eritrea decided to scamper down the runways at Ciampino Airport, all the while being chased by security in golf carts. All air traffic was subsequently diverted and the passengers in the airport had to stay overnight and well into the morning for further security checks.

The first day in Rome was filled with typical touristy things – forums, Colosseum, Circus Maximus, so on and so forth. While sitting in front of the Arch of Constantine taking some notes and making some sketches, a woman came up to me and asked if I spoke any English. I replied the affirmative and she asked me if I could explain any of the pictures on the arch. Since I had read all about it the previous night, I was able to discourse to her in full about the carvings, inscriptions, building dates, architectural details and fun facts. She thanked me and then complimented me on my "excellent English". I thanked her and we went our separate ways.

The next day I visited the basilica of San Clemente, which is actually a basilica built on top of a fourth-century basilica, built on top of a first-century building, part of which is a pagan temple devoted to a mystery cult. The underground excavations were dank, dark, and cool and kind of how I imagine my dream house. Wandering through the rooms and corridors, I thought to myself what I could do with the place: ‘Yes, it’s dark, and I like it dark, but perhaps I could install some nice Arts and Crafts sconces every few meters on the walls…Oh! This room devoted to idol worship would make a lovely dining room. Already has the benches and could hold more than enough people…’ Then, still deep in thought, I heard a scream. A poor German girl a few steps ahead of me turned around and thought I was a ghost (she really told me that). She started speaking very quickly in her native tongue, and I stood there a bit confused, but then assured her that I was, in fact, from the land of the living and she could even touch my arm or something. She then went away, somewhat embarrassed, though I’m not sure entirely convinced.

A couple of days later I took a pilgrimage to Vatican City, specifically to St. Paul’s Cathedral. People were swarming everywhere and I found a random line in which to queue myself. It happened to be the line to get to the cupola at the very top, and I was game for some pretty intense staircases. Unfortunately I was sandwiched between a pushy, overly-zealous Japanese group in the back and a family of melting, overweight Germans in front. With every step I prepared myself for the possibility that they were going to keel over and come barreling backwards down the stairs. I always stayed back a few steps, with the plan that if they did fall backwards, I would push myself against the wall and let them strike down the Japanese like bowling pins. But it never came to that. Getting to the top was a relief – it was cool and breezy and the view was quite nice. Afterwards I went back down into the cathedral itself. I originally had plans to bring back some holy water for family and friends, but current airline restrictions prevented me from doing so. Part of me wanted to bring some anyway just to see if it would scald the hands of any security guard intent on its removal from my luggage, but common sense convinced me otherwise.

The rest of my time in Rome was very pleasant and despite the recent heat waves, the weather was rather nice – low- to mid- 80’s by day and 70’s by night.

All-in-all Rome was fun and a nice change of pace, but I’m glad to be back in Dresden, where the weather is gorgeous, the scenery beautiful, and old German men shake their fists at me for riding my bike on the incorrect side of the road. I even missed the food, which I’ve gotten used to and now enjoy quite a bit. So upon arrival back to Texas, I look forward to all of y’all who constantly harked on me for being too skinny to now gently suggest that perhaps it would be in my best interest to lose a few pounds.

Thanks to all of you who have sent me the news about Lady Bird. As many of you know, I came to admire her a good deal while working at the LBJ Library and am sad that I’m not in Austin or Stonewall right now to give her a proper sendoff. I have plans this afternoon to bike over to one of my favorite spots not far from the banks of the Elbe River and plant some bluebonnet and wildflower seeds which I brought along with me. I cross my fingers that the introduction of these non-native plant species will not completely destroy the delicate eco-system of greater Saxony.

Sunday, July 1, 2007

Voyage Out


Churches and cemeteries are among my favorite places to visit while in a city -everyone has them and one can learn buckets about the history and culture of an area without a tour guide jabbering away or some fellow trying to sell you commemorative spoons. So a few days ago a friend and I made a little excursion down to Johannis Cemetery (http://www.johannisfriedhof-dresden.de/). Many of the graves belong to notable Dresdeners and some also to resistance fighters during the second World War. The pictures can be found here: http://picasaweb.google.com/racheldubya